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ESTAN.RG
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THE WINE TASTER
By Robin Garr
The Courier-Journal, Sept. 27, 1987
Every now and then, just often enough to sustain the joy of the quest,
I'll discover a moderately priced wine with as much class and style as
beverages commanding three to four times more.
This week, I ran across a double delight in two such high-quality,
moderate-price wines, both from the same manufacturer: A 1983 Estancia
Cabernet Sauvignon and a 1985 Estancia Chardonnay, discounted at Liquor
Outlet in Eastern Jefferson County at a remarkable $5.29 each.
These wines are made from grapes grown in the Alexander Valley of
Northern California's Sonoma County, a wine region that's rapidly gaining a
reputation for excellent wine.
Estancia's vineyards, according to literature proviced by the firm, lie
on the bank of the Russian River, surrounded by a virtual Hall of Fame of
vineyards including such luminaries as Robert Young, Alexander Valley and
Jordan.
Some Alexander Valley makers are raising prices to match the demand, but
Estancia -- a second label of Franciscan Vineyard, a serviceable but not
previously noteworthy brand -- has held the financial line on two of the best
$5 wines I've ever tasted.
The wines even look expensive, with their understated labels of burgundy
(on the red wine) and dark-green (on the white), inscribed with the maker's
name in gold script.
But it's what's inside the bottle that counts, and that's where Estancia
shines.
I like these wines because they show the characteristics that to me
distinguishes the best California wines from those of any other country: A
rich, aromatic fruitiness that leaps from the glass in a clean, well-made
beverage without apparent flaw.
Why is Estancia selling wine for $5 that probably could find takers at
$15?
It's a marketing decision, in the opinion of Louisville wholesaler Ken
Black, with Kentucky Liquor & Wine Co.
Black said Gary B. Topper, president of Vintage Wine Merchants, national
distributors for Estancia and Franciscan, believes the marketplace is flooded
with quality wine at premium prices, leaving great demand for good,
affordable wine.
Topper also has cut the prices of Franciscan's top wines, the Oakville
Estate line (which I'll review another week soon), bringing the label under
$10.
"He believes this is what the marketplace is looking for right now --
not another $14 bottle of Chardonnay," Black said.
Topper should know: He's the man who, among other things, helped plot
sales strategy for the ubiquitous Sutter Home White Zinfandel and the
increasingly popular Parducci wines.
To verify my good impressions from previous tastings, I rated the
Estancia Chardonnay in a blind tasting against another recently released
Chardonnay in a similar price range, the 1986 Vendange California Chardonnay
($4.99), a second label of Sonoma's giant Sebastiani Vineyards.
There was no comparison. The Vendange is a decent, well-made wine, but
its simple, soft character places it in an entirely different league.
The Estancia Cabernet, tasted alone, was even more remarkable. It
reminded me of a top-of-the-line California Cabernet or even a grand cru
Bordeaux from the superb 1982 vintage (which yielded, after all,
exceptionally fruity red wines in an almost California-like style).
If your red-wine tastes run more to Lambrusco, you might find the
Estancia Cabernet's powerful flavors startling, but if you're interested in
moving up to finer wine, this one might make a good introduction. It would
make a great partner with roast lamb or a rare steak.
(5 stars) Estancia Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 1983. (Cab-air-nay
So-veen-yawn.) This nearly opaque, dark-garnet wine breathes a bold aroma in
that gutsy California style that slathers layers of mint and something like
dark chocolate over deep, ripe fruit. Its smooth, full-bodied flavor is laden
with lingering fruit backed by crisp acid and an appealing oakiness. A slight
tannic astringency doesn't interfere with current enjoyment but suggests
potential for at least five years' aging.
(4 stars) Estancia Alexander Valley Chardonnay, 1985. (Shar-doe-nay.) This
clear, light brass-colored wine has a good Chardonnay smell of ripe apples
with pleasant overtones of yeast, like rising bread. Its crisp, lingering
flavor balances good fruit with tart, lemony acid and a touch of oak.
(2 1/2 stars) Vendange California Chardonnay, 1986. This clear, bright
greenish-gold wine's aroma focuses on light, pleasant fruit. Its soft, simple
flavor makes for pleasant sipping, but it lacks the acidity that a good table
wine needs to stand up to food.
Courier-Journal Wine and Food Critic Robin Garr rates table wines
available in the Louisville area, using a one- to five-star scale determined
by quality and value. Send suggestions or questions in care of The
Courier-Journal, 525 W. Broadway, Louisville, Ky. 40202, call him at (502)
582-4647 or send EasyMail to 73125,70.